Takeda Shingen and the Secret Origins of Lake Kawaguchi

Lake Kawaguchi, located in central Honshu, Japan, is the northernmost of the Fuji Five Lakes and lies in the northeastern part of the old Kai Province (present-day Yamanashi Prefecture), about 30 kilometers from Kofu. Nestled at the foot of Mount Fuji, the lake is renowned for its crystal-clear waters and stunning reflections of the iconic mountain. Surrounding the lake are scenic spots like "Oishi Park" and "Fujimidai," offering postcard-worthy views. Kai Province was a mountainous, landlocked region bordered by Sagami (now Kanagawa) to the east, Shinano (now Nagano) to the west, Suruga (now Shizuoka) to the south, and Echigo (now Niigata) to the north. Though the land was poor and lacked access to the sea, its value lay in its proximity to Mount Fuji and rich gold resources. The eastern part, where Lake Kawaguchi is located, served both as a natural barrier and a strategic route to the Kanto and Shinano regions.

In this context, Takeda Shingen (Dec 1, 1521 – May 13, 1573), originally named Takeda Harunobu, was born in Tsutsujigasaki Residence in Kofu (now the site of Takeda Shrine). The eldest son of Takeda Nobutora, he grew up witnessing his father's brutal rule. According to Kōyō Gunkan and local legends, Nobutora was cruel—he allegedly ordered a pregnant woman cut open just to see the baby's gender and had disobedient vassals buried alive. This tyranny led to widespread resentment and internal discord. In 1541, with the support of his mother, Lady Oi, and key retainer Itagaki Nobukata, 20-year-old Shingen launched a coup, exiled his father to Suruga, and ended his despotic rule. He then assumed leadership of the Takeda clan, earning the title "Tiger of Kai."

Shingen showed great interest in the Lake Kawaguchi area. It is said that he trained his troops in the forested area near today's Oishi Park, using the trees for cover. At Fujimidai (near present-day Narusawa Village), he tested fire-signal communication systems. From the site of today's Kawaguchi Lake Bridge, he gazed upon Mount Fuji and is quoted as saying:
"This mountain is like my will—unshakable; this lake is like my mind—deep and full of strategy."

He built embankments along the Fuji River, developed gold mining, and fathered 14 sons. His eldest, Yoshinobu, was later imprisoned, while his second son, Katsuyori, succeeded him. Shingen also appreciated poetry and tea ceremony, once writing: "Fifty years of human life is like a fleeting dream."

Using the iconic motto "Fūrinkazan" (Wind, Forest, Fire, Mountain), Shingen transformed Kai into a powerful Sengoku-era state. His most famous military feat was the five Battles of Kawanakajima against Uesugi Kenshin, especially the fourth battle in 1561. In August of that year, Shingen prepared logistics at Lake Kawaguchi for the upcoming confrontation: ninjas stored supplies at Oishi Park, lookouts were set up at Fujimidai, and bamboo rafts were readied at the lake bridge. On September 10, the battle erupted in Kawanakajima (modern-day Nagano City). With around 20,000 troops, Shingen deployed the "Woodpecker Tactic," feigning retreat to lure Uesugi's forces deeper.

One account suggests Shingen's wife (or concubine), Lady Sanjo, advised using morning fog for cover, which he accepted. As fog blanketed the field, Shingen's forces lay in ambush on the western side of Kawanakajima. Uesugi Kenshin, thinking Shingen had fled, charged with 18,000 troops. In a dramatic moment recorded in Kōyō Gunkan, Kenshin burst into Shingen's main camp, slashing at him with a sword. Shingen blocked with his war fan and only received a light wound. Vassal Yamagata Masakage counterattacked, forcing Kenshin to retreat. During the battle, Shingen's son Yoshinobu led the vanguard, but differences in tactics with his father led to future estrangement.

Though the battle was indecisive, with Takeda losing about 4,000 troops and Uesugi more, Shingen secured his northern frontier. Afterward, he passed through Lake Kawaguchi, reflecting on the cost of war at the lake bridge. He ordered repairs to the surrounding roads and commissioned a battle map of Kawanakajima for posterity.

Shingen later launched a campaign into the Kanto region and defeated the Hojo clan. In 1572, he began an expedition westward to challenge Oda Nobunaga and Tokugawa Ieyasu. He died in Shinano in 1573 at age 53, instructing his death be kept secret for three years. His successor, Katsuyori, failed to hold power, and the Takeda clan fell in 1582. Shingen's strategies influenced Tokugawa Ieyasu, and his flood-control works continued benefiting locals. "Fūrinkazan" became a cultural symbol.

His legacy lives on especially in Yamanashi Prefecture through the Shingen-ko Festival, one of Japan's largest samurai festivals. Held in Kofu City on the first weekend of April (close to his lunar birthday), it draws tens of thousands of visitors. The highlight is the "Koshu Army Parade," where over 1,000 participants don Sengoku armor and carry "Fūrinkazan" flags, marching from Kofu Station to Takeda Shrine. The night is lit by torches and the sound of drums and war cries, recreating the spirit of Kawanakajima. Local specialties like "Shingen Mochi," a red bean rice cake dessert named after him, are popular souvenirs.

The Kawaguchi area, thanks to its ties with Shingen, has become a prime destination for historical tourism. Modern facilities incorporate his legend into the visitor experience.

Recommended Spots Combining Takeda's Legacy with Tourism:

1. Takeda Shrine & Oishi Park One-Day Tour
   Morning: Visit Takeda Shrine (starting point of the festival) to view relics like his war fan and participate in the Shingen-ko Festival.
   Afternoon: Explore Oishi Park, admire Mt. Fuji's reflection and autumn foliage, and imagine military drills once held there. Shuttle buses connect both sites. Don't forget to try Shingen Mochi for a taste of the Sengoku era.

2. Fujimidai & Kawaguchi Lake Museum Half-Day Trip
   Morning: Climb Fujimidai (Narusawa Village, approx. 35.4833°N, 138.6833°E) to enjoy panoramic lake views from Shingen's vantage point. Travel time: about 15–20 minutes by car.
   Afternoon: Visit Kawaguchi Lake Museum to appreciate Fuji-themed art, linking to Shingen's love of beauty.

3. Kawaguchi Bridge Night Walk & Fujimidai Ropeway Experience
   Evening: Stroll along Kawaguchi Bridge, gaze at the night-lit lake, and reflect on Shingen's wartime introspection.
   Next Day: Ride the Fujimidai Ropeway (Kawaguchi Lake–Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway) on the lake's eastern shore to ascend to 1,075m in just 3 minutes. Enjoy sweeping views of the lake and Mount Fuji—evoking Shingen's ambition. The observatory gift shop sells Shingen Festival-themed souvenirs to take home his legend.

From the grand spectacle of the Shingen-ko Festival to the breathtaking view atop the Fujimidai Ropeway, Takeda Shingen's presence still echoes through the region. As you stroll by the lake, you might just hear the whisper of the "Tiger of Kai" carried on the mountain wind, forever part of the land he once ruled.